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From: SE K750i[SMTP:K750I@0O0.ORG]
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 1:35:08 PM
To: SE K750i
Subject: Another car meet
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Mostly roadster this time.

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From: SE K750i[SMTP:K750I@0O0.ORG]
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:49:02 PM
To: SE K750i
Subject: 60k
Auto forwarded by a Rule

My Boxster finally hit 60k miles after 8 years.

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Not in my garage of course. The last time I drove a brand new Porsche into the garage was back in August 1998. The Cayman is like between a Boxster S and 911. It has the mid engine placement of the Boxster which makes it one of the best cars to take on the winding moutain road. If I had $70K to waste, then I'll think about it but another two seater is not for me anymore.

Materials:
An interior light (can be bought at your local auto store)
15 feet of 22 awg electrical wire (white and black is preferred)

Tools:
Soldering iron
Torque wrench (buy the entire set)
Wire stripper
Standard screwdriver

01. You can but this from your local auto store. Make sure that it is 12V DC operated, not battery. If there is an on off switch, cut the wire that goes to the switch and bypass it. This way it is at a constant on position.


02. Underneath the passenger feet area, remove the foam panel by unscrewing the two plastic screws.


03. Cut a square hole that is the same size of the light cover where the light is being shined through. Don't cut too wide, because you need the material for mounting the cover.




04. Location of light. With the light cover on the outside acting as a clamp, lock the two screws down to the casing of the light unit.



05. Remove the dummies or motion sensor to get to the torque screws. The dome light unit will come off once the two screws are removed. Use a standard screwdriver to pop out the dome light.


06. Remove the light cover and solder the negative (black) wire to the contact.


07. Solder the positive (white) to the middle prong of the three prong contact.
**
This picture is wrong. Solder to the opposite side.
**




08. Assemble the light unit back together. Route the wires accordingly to prevent any obstruction when the light switch is toggled.




09. Snap the dome light unit back on. Route the wires accordingly so there is no interference.


10. Remove the sun visor and start tucking the wires inside of the panels. Run the wires all the way down into the passenger footwell area.








11. Now connect the wires black to black and white to white. Test the light out by turning the dome light on and off. Reinstall the foam panel and you're done.

01. You can purchase the heat resistant paint from your local autoshop. The paint I use here is red eingine enamel with ceramic with heat rating of 500F. You may also use paint for BBQ and over. You also need a fine paint brush, a cup or bowl, masking tape and car jack.


02. Open the front trunk and take out the car jack from the spare tire.


03. Jack the car up at its designated point. Check your car's manual if you don't know where to put the jack. Raise the car high enough where the wheel barely touching the ground. This way you can relievet the tention from the weight of the car.


04. Loosen all the lug nuts and remove them from the bottom up.


05. Once the wheel is removed, clean the brake caliper thoroughly.


06. Mask out area that does not require painting with masking tape.


07. Spray a little pool of paint into a cup or bowl. Use a fine small paint brush and start painting away the first coat. Let the paint sit for half an hour and paint a second coat. Let the second caot sit for about 45 minutes.



08. Now remove all masking tapes.


09. Put the wheel back on. Becareful not to hit the painted caliper with the wheel. Repeat the process for the rest of the calipers. Now let the car sit for 8 hours for the paint to cure. (that's what the paint can direction says)
Have fun wheeling around with your bright brake calipers.

This is a simple mod if you want addition storage.

01. You can purchase the net from your local BMW dealer.The cost is about $30.00 US.
Fixing Element #: 51 47 2 263 062 (x4)
Pacel Net: # 51 47 2 261 407


02. Line up the net on the right side of the passenger footwell console. Use a small screw driver smaller in diameter than the plastic carpet screw. Insert the screwdriver into the carpet so you have a pilot hole.


03. Start with the left screw and work your way clounter clockwise and snap the frame of the pacel net on as you go.

You may use this information as reference for hard wiring your remote garage door opener to an additional rocker switch. This works only if you don't have the heated seat option. Even though this is not a major modification, you are doing it at your own risk. I will not be responsible for your action. Make sure you know what you are doing or else consult your Porsche dealer.
PURPOSE:
Integrate your remote garage door opener to an additional rocker switch. This will eliminate the pressing of the garage door opener by hard wiring it to the rocker switch. The remote garage door opener still uses battery and tucked underneathe the console. The new rocker switch will be illuminated by sharing power from the left window rocker switch. Overall, the look is aesthetic.
TOOLS:

Window Rocker Switch ($26.00 from Porsche dealer)

01. This is what my console looks like. I'm going to replace the top dummy rocker switch with my garage opener switch.


02. I bought a window rocker switch from a Porsche dealership. It cost about $26.00 +tax. The reason I chose the window rocker swtich is that the image on it resembles a garage door opening and closing.


03. Start by removing the ash tray from the console and unscrew the two plastic torque screw with an "L" torque wrench. Mine came with the car bra I bought.


04. Once the screws are removed, pull the console out. Disconnect the light wire for the ash tray light.


05. Unlodge the top dummy rocker switch. This may require a flat head screw driver.


06. Pop the new rocker switch in the location of the dummy switch. The orientation of the switch should be the same as the window rocker switches. Click to zoom in.


07. It should look like this after the new rocker switch is popped in.


08. Disconnect the white window switch connector. The power for the new rocker switch light will be shared with this.


09. Solder two wires to the terminals one at each end of the white connector. This is the power source for the light. Left terminal of window connector to left terminal of new rocker switch. Same for the right side. Re-connect the white connector. See zoom image above for detail.


10. Take apart your garage opener and locate the contact switch. Use the digital multimeter to find out which legs of the contact switch provide the contact when the button of the garage open is pressed (sorry you have to be a little technical here). Solder a 1 foot wire to each leg.


11. For my garage opener I found the two legs that provide the contact to open the garage when the button is pressed. Click to zoom in so you'll have an idea of what its like.


12. Make a hole through the casing and run the wires thru it. Repackage the garage opener with the new battery.


13. Solder the other ends of the two wires from the garage open to the new rocker switch. The wires can be vice versa. As long one is tied together at the terminal. This way the garage will activate when the rocker switch is pressed in either direction. Click on the zoom picture above for detail.


14. Dress up the wires with electrical tape and cover all exspose terminals. To prevent the garage opener from making rattling noise, I stuffed it in a sock. Put the garage opener in first. Push it all the way inside the console, and make sure that it does not obstruct anything like the emergency brake mechanism. Re-connect the ash tray light connector.


15. Re-install the console by screwing in the two plastic torque screw and drop in the ash tray. Voila! Done! Complete. The switch works like a charm. It even lights up when the light is turned on. Now I don't have to mess with a garage opener that I always misplace. Good luck! Send me an e-mail if you have questions regarding this procedure.


16. Credit to my cat Slinky for helping out.

01. Gold and gaurds red model paint and two fine paint brushes can be purchase at your local hobby shop or hobby section of your local store for less than $10.00.


02. Remove the crests from the wheels and clean the surface thuroughly.


03. Start by painting the red area first. Mask one section out.


04. Shake the paint well. Lightly dip the brush into the paint and paint away. Don't use too much paint or else there'll be a blob of paint on that section of the crest. Let it sit for 15 minutes.


05. When the paint is dry, slowly peel off the masking tape.


06. Do the same for the rest of the three red sections.


07. Now we start painting the gold color. This is a little tricky. There is no need for masking. All you need is a calm and gentle hand. Use the other brush and lightly dip into the gold paint and start painting the gold sections. Take your time here.


08. This is result when you are done. Repeat the process for the other three crests.


09. What a difference and you just saved $150.00

01. This harness allows you to operate your spoiler up or down while you are driving. The rocker switch seemlessly integrates into one of your dummy switch location. You can order the Plug and Play harness kit from www.boxsey.com . The harness kit comes pre-assembled so you just need to drop it into your Boxster. You also need a philips screwdriver. *The 996 spoiler switch comes in gloss and matte finish.


02. Remove the left switch panel. The piece is a snap on held down by two prongs that is part of the panel. . Get a hold of the lip and gently pull it straight out. Use a butter knife if you don't have long finger nails.


03. Drop one wire into the opening one at a time or else they won't fit. The wire should fall straight down and through the bottom.






04. Remove one of the three dummies switch or what ever is available to be replaced from the switch panel. Push the new rocker switch into the newly vacant switch slot until you hear a snap.


05. Snap the switch panel back into the dashboard.This is what mine looks like after the installation of the spoiler rocker switch.


06. Now remove the fuse panel on the bottom left of the driver's foot.


07. Use a philips screwdriver to remove the four screws that is holding down the carpeted panel.


08. Once the screws are removed, pull out the carpeted panel.


09. Where the wires were dropped down, run them across the vent tube and ty-wrap them to the existing cable strap.


10. Run the wires along the vent tube towards the relay panel and ty-wrap them to the bundle of harnessed.


11. Remove the connector that is being plugged into the existing spoiler switch. Gently wiggle it out.


12. Plug the bypass lugs into the connector you just pulled out accordingly.


13. Plug the three blue main lugs into the original spoiler switch accordingly.


14. Ty-wrap the connector to the bundle of harness to secure it down. Strap down any exceeded harnesses. Reinstall the carpeted panel and the fuse panel.
*More precise instruction comes with the kit*

This is not a mod or hack. It is just a basic oil change instruction. It is best if done with a left.

Tools and material:
8mm hex wrench
new replacement oil filter
9.25 quart of synthetic oil

01. Lift the car up high enough so you can get to the oil pan.


02. Use an 8mm hex wrench to remove the drain bolt. Make sure that you have a descent size container to hold the used oil.


03. Let the oil drain until the pan is empty. This may take 15 to 20minutes. Remove the oil filter cup to replace the filter.


04. Remove the oil filter and replace it with a new one. Replace the rubber seal and re-install the filter cup. Wipe the oil pan clean and screw the drain bolt back on. You may reuse the aluminum seal for the drain bolt, but it is recommended to have that replaced as well. I had to reuse mine because some stupid service guy at CARLSEN PORCH gave me the wrong smash ring even though I specifically asked for it for the Boxster.


05. Lower the car and open the trunk to fill up with 9.25 quart of Mobile synthetic oil.

01. Buy a can of Rust-Oleum Hard Hat V2115 Silver Aluminum from Home Depot or your local paint store ($4.00).


02. Remove the wind stopper meshes and thuroughly clean them of dust and lint. Remove the rubber paddings from each of the three flanges. You may reuse them if you don't have replacement.


03. Start by paiting the top side of one mesh. Hold the can 12-16 inches from the surface of the mesh; spray in a steady back and forth to avoid runs and sags. Allow to dry and apply a second coat.



04. Turn the mesh over and repeat the process. Once done, allow it to dry and repeat the process for the other mesh.



05. Here are the completed meshes.


06. Apply new rubber paddings to all the flanges. In this case, I got them replaced.
 

07. Re-install the meshes back onto the rollbar.


08. Here is a before and after shot.

The door sills are custom designed by me for Porsche Boxster all year model. Made from 0.6" thick manufacturer grain stainless and 29" long. It is adhered with 3M double sided tape. Now comes with laser engraved 150 point font 986 ensignia. You could order them through my www.boxsey.com Boxster site.
**This instruction is only for the door sills I designed.**

Tools:
Measuring tape
Masking tape
Bottle of Windex
Wash rag
Pair of Scissors

01. Start on either side of the car. This shows the driver's side. Remove dirt and dust from entire sill surface.


02. Cut a piece of tape that is 15.25 inches long. Apply one end of the tape right underneath the door latch. Do not stretch the tape as you slowly press it down towards the sill (keep tape straight). Where the other end of the tape ends is the starting point of the door sill.


03. Remove the white plastic cover of the door sill and place it on the sill where the end of the tape ended (do not peel double sided tape yet). Seat the door sill in flush so you have an idea of what it looks like.


04. Now turn the door sill over and peel off all the double sided tape paper.


05. Turn the door sill back over and gently place it on the sill like step #3. Do not put pressure on door sill until it's properly lined up. Both ends of the door sill should be flushed with sill at the curve.


06. The entire surface of the sill is not always flat. **important** make sure that the door sill is properly seated and flush before applying pressure to it. Apply pressure by pressing down on the door sill so the double sided tape can make contact with the surface of the sill. Once completed, clean the door sill of finger prints with Windex or any cleaning agent. Repeat the entire process for the opposite side.